Saturday, December 6, 2008

Finnish Folk Music


Ever since I got to Finland, I began to notice the many things about it that are amazing yet mainly undiscovered to the outside world. One of them is the folk music.

Most of the instruments in traditional Finnish music I had never heard of. Take the kantele (see picture below). Although it's not that similar in the way it's played, I find that it looks a little bit like a hammered dulcimer. The kantele is a traditional plucked string instrument. In my Finnish folk music class, we learned to play the 5-stringed kantele. Kantele is especially unique because it has been used in the past to accompany the singing of traditional poems and stories. Some of these songs/poems were collected and made into the epic poem: the Kalevala (another well-kept secret about Finland).



In my folk music class, we learned melodies that can be sung to Kalevala texts. They are usually 2 lines long, each containing 5 beats. We would sing antiphonally, where 1 person sings the first line and the rest of us repeat that line, etc. We then moved on to learning the kantele. Learning how the music and poetry are interwoven through hands-on experience enabled me to understand the music far better than reading about it in a book or being instructed about it in a lecture format.



We then learned about the many folk woodwind instruments. One day, we had a chance to go to the instrument making workshop in the basement and make our own overtone flutes. I was so proud of my flute and practiced it a lot for a couple days ;) I then realized that I had been holding it the wrong way: with it facing to my left, rather than to the right. Haha. I am obviously not a woodwind player. I plan to continue my practice of the flute when time permits.




And more recently, we learned about the jouhikko. It is 3-stringed and played with a bow and the bottom of it is held between your legs (in the way you would hold a cello). It's really interesting because you have to hold onto it with your left hand (where there's a space in the wood-see above). And you only change the pitch on the string farthest to your right; the other 2 are drones. BUT, instead of putting your fingertips down on the string to change the pitch, you have to move the bottom joint of your left-hand fingers (except for the thumb, which is still holding on) backwards to touch the string. It's really counter intuitive if you grew up playing a violin or cello or guitar (for instance). Also, the bow is used to create a back beat feel, where the drone strings are emphasized on the 2nd and 4th beat. I hope to make a jouhikko in the instrument making workshop spring semester. This, I really WILL practice!


Another intriguing part of Finnish folk music is joiking. It originates from the Sami people in Lapland. When you joik, you're basically singing or chanting on something. For instance, you can joik on your dog or on the tree you just walked by or whatever. It's a way to represent, right now, how you are feeling about or experiencing something. The Finnish band: Rinneradio has a track on their album 'On' that is called Slow Travel, Part 1, which features joiking. Check it out!

The Sibelius Academy has one of the only Folk Music departments in the entire world. It emphasizes playing of Finnish and international folk styles, with less focus on research than an ethnomusicology program. I'm grateful to have had such a great opportunity to learn about Finnish folk music.


KØBENHAVN- My trip to Copenhagen



Nyhaven Canal


In mid-November, I took a long weekend trip to visit my friend Raj. He is also on a Fulbright Scholarship, but at the Royal Danish Academy of Music in Copenhagen. I had a great time in the city and am surprised that it's not a more popular tourist destination for Americans-maybe it's still somewhat undiscovered, especially since Amsterdam is relatively closeby and more of a hot spot for Americans.

One of the best things about the trip was that I could go to a variety of ethnic food restaurants and it didn't cost me an arm and a leg. In Helsinki, things are very expensive and the only ethnic fast food you can get is a kebab. This does get old after a while. In Copenhagen, I went to a Tex-Mex place, an Indian restaurant, a middle-Eastern vegetarian buffet, an Italian restaurant and a Danish cafe.




Tivoli Gardens was one of my favorite places in Copenhagen. For some reason, I expected it to be like the state fair amusement parks in the US: with unhealthy food and sketchy looking guys running the rides. Or, at least, I expected it to be like Six Flags: cool rides but very plastic and fake. At Tivoli, it did cost a lot to get in and then you still have to pay for each ride, BUT, it was such a classy, artistic place. I went at night and the Christmas lights were up. The rides and surrounding buildings were beautiful. It was a very artistic amusement park experience. I highly recommend it. Tivoli hosts regular outdoor and indoor performances and there are nice restuarants on the grounds, as well. Actually, as I was sitting drinking some Glögg (red wine that is heated and spiced with cinnamon, sugar, cloves, etc), there was a group of high school-aged kids performing Christmas carols on brass instruments and strolling through the grounds. The best part was that they were wearing clogs, so they made quite a racket as they walked from place to place.






My last day in Copenhagen, Raj and I took an excursion outside of the city to Kronborg Castle. It is also known as Elsinore, the setting for Shakespeare's Hamlet, Prince of Denmark. We were running a bit late and didn't get there in time to go on a tour, but we got a good feel for the place anyway. We then went to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, which I really enjoyed. The organization and layout of the exhibitions as well as the collection was well done. It's one of the best art museums that I've been to.

Visiting Copenhagen gave me the breath of fresh air that I needed to then go back to Helsinki and have a productive end to my semester. I hope you all have a chance to visit it someday.